4 p.m. Meander medieval alleyways
Explore the Altstadt, Innsbruck’s compact medieval nucleus, starting at the glittering landmark, the Goldenes Dachl. From the old town’s central square, admire its frescoed loggia that served as a viewing box for the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian I, and its “golden” roof made with 2,657 gilded copper shingles, completed in 1500. Immediately south, down Herzog Friedrich Strasse, the Altstadt’s main drag, spot the Stadtturm, an onion-domed tower, where since the 15th century, and until 1967, watchmen announced the hours of the day and monitored the area for danger. Ascend the 133-step spiral staircase, and enjoy Alpine views. Admission €4.50, or about $4.75, or free with an Innsbruck Card. At dusk, warm up with a mulled wine at the nearby Stiftskeller, a cavernous beer hall in a reconstructed convent.
6 p.m. Sample Tyrolean cuisine
Despite its affluence, don’t expect to find much of a fine-dining culture in Innsbruck. Many of the eateries serve standard-issue Austrian classics, including greasy schnitzels, although local dishes featuring regional ingredients can be found at the city’s better restaurants. One of those is Restaurant Sailer, between the central train station and the Altstadt, a cozy wood-paneled stüberl, or traditional parlor, with hunting trophies lining the wall. The seasonal four-course prix-fixe (about €63) is an excellent deal. A recent menu featured a tender deer saddle served with paunzen (a Tyrolean take on gnocchi), plums and savoy cabbage, while a standout dessert was a red-kuri-squash pie in the shape of a pumpkin, served à la mode with ginger and honey-roasted almonds.
8 p.m. Enjoy high culture at high altitudes
Innsbruck was home to one of the first opera houses north of the Alps, the Comedihaus, founded in 1629 by Archduke Leopold V. Today, see performances of all stripes at the Tiroler Landestheater, a 19th-century neo-Classical building with a red-and-white horseshoe-shaped auditorium, renovated and modernized in 2021. Since 2018, performances also take place next door at the sleek, ultramodern Haus für Musik. In summer, the Landestheater hosts the Innsbruck Festival of Early Music, which presents rare Renaissance, Baroque and classical music, including operas. Upcoming productions this winter include new stagings of Richard Strauss’s beloved comedy “Der Rosenkavalier,” Mozart’s final opera “La Clemenza di Tito” and Tchaikovsky’s “Eugene Onegin.” (Tickets generally range from €20 to €71.)
