Don’t Call It an ‘Ethnic’ Grocery Store

Last year, Americans bought a half a billion packets of Shin Ramyun, the spicy, beefy Korean instant noodle. The bold red-and-black packaging feels inescapable: It’s a staple of college dorm rooms, bodegas, middle-of-the-country Walmarts and viral TikTok videos. But 30 years ago, the noodles were largely unknown in the United States. No grocery store would…

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